Day 29 - Superstition, Rum Runners, and Unorthodox Fish and Chip Eaters - Lunenburg, NS

Day 29 - September 18 

Superstition, Rum Runners, and Unorthodox Fish and Chip Eaters - Lunenburg, NS

Bright and early - 6:45AM - I was up and had the kids tumble from their beds right into their carseats. They were then instructed to ‘go back to sleep’, and we headed off down a quiet road towards Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. I love to travel early while the people are still sleeping and the roads are still. 

The land between Amherst and Lunenberg was pretty unremarkable - a lot of forest and highway. The scenery really began for me when we got closer to the coastline. I had booked us into a campground on Blockhouse Hill, as it was right in Lunenberg and I knew it would be walking distance to the town. It was rather plain, but clean, and sufficient. There were a couple other campgrounds down the way about 50 miles, and perhaps if I was to do it again I would go there, but then there is always the same old problem - what to do with the caravan during the day while you are sight-seeing. So I think taking the Blockhouse Hill campground was a wise choice.

After setting up we got on our walking shoes and headed on down Lincoln Hill towards the village. The houses along the way were old and full of details to admire. They were a variety: colourful, old, newer, renovated, rather derelict, empty, for sale, businesses, residences. All very different, but all very wonderful to see. Many had dates on them as to when they were built and who owned them at different times, such as sea captains and judges. 

I found one house that I quite liked. I have looked at many house plans on a site called Antique House Styles, and this type has never interested me before, but seeing it in person I was rather drawn to it. I had Isaiah pop up and see if it was inhabited, as there was a for sale sign in front. The stairs had cobwebs on them, so I was suspicious that it was empty. It turned out I was likely correct, as the interior looked unoccupied. I took a few pictures to show the Framer, because I know how my life goes...

Our first stop was the Nault-R ---- House - must get the name to give it honour, but the papers are in my souvenir box.  This house was a Georgian style home, and the volunteer that was working gave us a wonderful mini tour of the downstairs. We learned much, including the fact the people that immigrated here were very suspicious and they had many beliefs about the devil. They believed that the devil would come into the house through the backdoor, rather than the front door, because the front door was obvious, so they needed a way to trick him, so they built a back that matched the front to confuse the devil. Hence, the bay window-type upstairs over the front door and back door. 

Large Bay Window Over Front and Back Door to Confuse the Devil

Another suspicion was that when a person died the devil would try to take them, so rather than exit through the front or back door, as the devil might expect, they made the lower windows large enough for them to be removed and for a casket to be carried through. Hence, the 8x8 parlour windows versus the other 6x6 downstairs windows. 

When the curators of the museum had the responsibility for the house, a shoe was found in one of the walls. This was a fascinating fact, but it was even more curious when they found out why the shoe was in the wall. It turned out that many shoes would be found in the walls of most houses in Lunenburg. Once again, it was the fear of the devil. The immigrants believed that the devil would come for them, so the builders of the houses put the shoes in the wall, so that if the devil found the shoe, he would think he found them, and he would then leave. 

Quilts were made from tiny bits of scrap. The fabric became felted over time, so the edges did not fray, and every piece was used. They then put the quilted circles onto a backing.

The Fisheries Museum and Bluenose II were next. 

The stone memorial to all the seamen lost in the area was pretty sobering especially when  you read the names and saw that at times there were multiple from the same family!

Fifty Pound Lobster

We learned all about a few different subjects, such as lobsters and rum runners and building boats. A woman gave a demonstration with lobsters and showed us a blue lobster, plus one that was caught weighing 50 lbs! 

There were two men working in a booth. They were building a couple boats, and they really appreciated the fact that my children were so interested in what they were doing and asked them questions. They made the children Honourary Members of the Model Ship Builders Guild. 

Also, I found out something very interesting. During the Prohibition Rum-Runners were a busy group of people.

The guy that ran the telegraph on a rum running operation was called a Sparky. I have a rum-loving, sea-loving, family member who had a dog named Sparky when I was about four years old. I loved that family member, and when I got a little dog that looked like his dog, I decided it should be named Sparky, also. I have a chuckle now, thinking that it is very likely that my sea-going-rum-loving family member likely had a dog named Sparky for a reason....  And he never knew that my dog bore his dog’s name! (laugh)

A Crazy Quilt

The Chairs I Want

Following the Museum the children went out to the Touch display where they had a chance to handle some starfish and scallops. Now, if you have never seen a scallop that is too bad! They are hilarious to watch. When the worker would pick up a scallop it’s mouth would be shut (they look like clams), but upon exiting the water they would squirt out a big gulp of water and then begin clapping their shell just like something out of a cartoon! Once being dropped back in the water they would make a mad dash away in the water while bubbles rose to the surface. The children giggled up a storm at the antics of the scallops!

The kids really enjoyed going into the ships, schooners, and fishing vessels. 

I had my favourite, but the boys really liked the heavy iron ship from the 1960s. Mine choice was the 1940 ship, as it was wooden and cozy inside with a communal bedroom, rather than individual cold bedrooms. 

My Favourite

The Boys' Favourite

The Boys' Favourite

Our last stop of the day was the Fish Shack - a fish and chips restaurant on the front. It was not very expensive - $8.99 for one piece of fish and chips - a normal serving for a person. And it was tasty! Now, being English, my children are expected to ‘do it right’. So I instructed them how to squeeze the lemon on the cod, and then serve themselves some tarter sauce on the side, and the malt vinegar was to be splashed over the chips. Ready to eat. They all dutifully did this, except Isaiah, who had to try it his way. He did placate his mother later and tried it the English way, and he decided it wasn’t too bad! The rest enjoyed their culinary experience. 

Well, having taught my children the ‘proper’ way to eat this cultural meal, you can imagine my horror when to my right I saw a man, who shall remain faceless, sacrilegiously destroying his meal! He very carefully and artfully, I might add, spread first ketchup, then mayonaise, and then coleslaw over the entire piece of cod, before he very neatly began systematically chopping it up with a knife and fork into tiny pieces. It was a sight to see, and I wondered what the blundering…. patron was doing in a British Chippie! ;)

Fudge and Ice-Cream Window Shopping

My Favourite House